15000 Ipo 13500 Rv Air Conditioner

15000 ipo 13500 rv air conditioner



Topic: 13500 btu versus 15000 btu

Posted By: suz155 on 01/01/14 10:18am

Hello all,

Still looking at the different B's and comparing. I live in Southern Texas and summers can be brutal.

15000 ipo 13500 rv air conditioner

Still work full time and I can not "get away" to the mountains on a weekend trip, too far. So, the r/v staying semi cool, is important.

15000 ipo 13500 rv air conditioner



I did notice some r/v's have 13500btu's(most)and some have 15000btu's Does that make a difference in the temp in the vehicle or is it negligible?


Thanks


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Collecting memories, not things.




Posted By: Mandalay Parr on 01/01/14 10:28am

Probably depends on the size of the B.
In warm climates I would go with the big one.


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Posted By: mumkin on 01/01/14 10:57am

Definitely the 15000 if you have the choice.

When we read people complaining about their AC, it is people in the SW heat with a smaller unit.

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In fact, LTV has now switched to 15000 units for that very reason, but only in their small C units. Their B's still get 11000 ac units. I checked Roadtrek and Pleasureway sites and they seem to only use 10-11000 units too.

So, I am not sure what B's you are seeing with 13500 or 15000 ACs.




Mumkin
2019 Roadtrek Simplicity SRT (half Zion/half Simplicity)
2015 Roadtrek 170
2011 LTV Libero
2004 GWV Classic Supreme



Posted By: suz155 on 01/01/14 11:13am

I should have mentioned , I am looking at the Sprinter based B's.

They, for the most part, have the 13500.


Posted By: Golden_HVAC on 01/01/14 12:17pm

How big is this RV?

I think a 13,500 Btu A/C is going to cool the small space so quickly, and will not take the time to dehumidify the air in the RV. A larger air conditioner will cool it even faster, leaving most of the humidity in the air.

I have a 30' long RV that is well insulated (as RV's go) with lots of windows, and 240 square feet of roof.

I lived in Phoenix with one A/C unit when some days reached 105 and others 110. While not "Cool" inside, it was cooling the RV and reasonable inside.

So make sure that your roof is white, and get the 13,500 Btu air conditioner.

15000 BTU Window Air Conditioners

If you plan a lot of winter camping, or using the RV as a extra bedroom while at home, you might consider a heat pump so you can warm the RV too.

Fred.


Posted By: pianotuna on 01/01/14 12:41pm

Hi,

I'd go with the 13500--that way it can be run safely on a good quality 15 amp circuit.

(i.e. at your home). The 15000 is just that little tiny bit harder to run.

If a heat pump is an option--I'd go with a 13500 btu unit.

15000 ipo 13500 rv air conditioner




Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp hours of AGM in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.


Posted By: Horizon170 on 01/01/14 01:46pm

I too would suggest the 13.5K BTU, however the size of your RV comes into play.
I looked at the RV size and stick with my suggestion.
Remember that an A/C too large isn't as effective as the proper size one.
Your Generator will also thank you and as someone mentioned you can use a 15 amp circuit when at home.

Just make sure the circuit is dedicated for the RV and doesn't have other house stuff plugged inside the home.
Happy travels.


Marvin

2010 Coachman Freelander 22TB on a
2008 Sprinter/Freightliner chassis
1995 Geo Tracker (Toad)



Posted By: Horizon170 on 01/01/14 01:48pm

Horizon170 wrote:

I too would suggest the 13.5K BTU, however the size of your RV comes into play.
I looked at the RV size and stick with my suggestion.
Remember that an A/C too large isn't as effective as the proper size one.
Your Generator will also thank you and as someone mentioned you can use a 15 amp circuit when at home.

What is the Best RV Air Conditioner?

Just make sure the circuit is dedicated for the RV and doesn't have other house stuff plugged inside the home.
Happy travels.


EDIT------Unless the unit comes with a heat strip in the A/C I would never pay extra for it.


Posted By: Triker33 on 01/01/14 03:40pm

A Coleman 13.5K PS will use less AMP's


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Posted By: My Roadtrek on 01/01/14 04:12pm

The Onan 2800 may have a hard time running a 15,000 BTU A/C.

It may run the new Coleman, but I doubt you could use much else at the same time.


Posted By: Snowman9000 on 01/01/14 05:20pm

We have a 23' B+ with 13,500 unit.

It's too big IMO. The runs are too brief.


2014 Sunseeker 2300 Class C (Chevy 4500)



Posted By: mlts22 on 01/01/14 05:52pm

A/C size really depends on the area where one lives.

A unit that keeps a comfortable temperature and humidity in one area will be almost useless in another.

Houston, NOLA, and Florida are not just hot, but humid, so a swamp cooler is useless.

Removing humidity is important as well.

Of course, too large an A/C may not remove the humidity from the air, causing the air to get clammy.

Another factor is that a larger A/C has more locked rotor amps.

15000 ipo 13500 rv air conditioner

A 11k BTU A/C can start and run from a Honda 2000 watt generator. A 13.5k BTU model is iffish.

15000 ipo 13500 rv air conditioner

A 15k BTU A/C might not be startable even with a 3000 watt A/C and would require a pair of 2000 watt Hondas.

I live in Austin, so take this for what you will. A "B", I'd use a 13.5k BTU A/C like the Coleman that can run from a 2500 watt generator.

Read This Before Buying an RV Air Conditioner

If I had a "C" with a slide, I'd go with a 15k BTU model. With slides and longer than 28-30 feet, I'd go with two A/Cs. Otherwise the rig may be uninhabitable from May-September.




Posted By: suz155 on 01/01/14 06:47pm

I had thought about the gensets, that was going to be my next questions, thanks for the thought.

I don't want to go with the newer B with slide.

I was leaning towards the ERA or the RT Adventurous, but, I'm just not sure as I do live in Houston and as someone already mentioned not sure if the 13500 can take the kind of the heat and humidity that the Gulf Coast can kick out.

Dometic Duo Therm 15,000 BTU RV Air Conditioner Ducted

Which would limit my choices.

I appreciate everyones help.

* This post was edited 01/01/14 07:02pm by suz155 *


Posted By: My Roadtrek on 01/01/14 07:55pm

In a Class B, because of the windows, not great insulation, and the fact that they leak air, expect only about 10 to 15 degrees lower inside temps.

You might see 20 if the van has been sitting in the shade, parked on dirt/grass, and the chassis has cooled cooled down.

There are many threads on this in the archives, and about ways to achieve optimum cooling, but 20 degrees is as low as you will get.

One big problem in Texas, AZ, and other SW states is the ground stays hot through the night. Summer here in Tucson is often in the high 80's low 90' at midnight. Hot air leaks into the van, so depending on how hot that air is, and how fast it gets in, will determine how efficient the A/C will be.

SELECTING THE RIGHT AIR CONDITIONER




Posted By: steveh27 on 01/02/14 07:24am

I had to replace my AC on my Xplorer 230XL & am very glad I went with Dometic's high efficiency model. I believe it is 13.5k btu, but it can easily run with a Honda 2000.

It gets my 20' Class B very cold in a hurry. Anyone replacing their AC should consider getting this unit.




Posted By: pianotuna on 01/02/14 09:10am

Hi Suz,

Think of the difference in percentage. A 15 btu unit is a mere 10% larger.

RV Air Conditioner Buying Guide

The only (doubtful) advantage might be shorter run times. Shorter run time means higher humidity levels in the RV and that leads to greater discomfort.

Running an air conditioner on a generator is often more expensive than paying for a campsite. inexpensive campsites

suz155 wrote:

I'm just not sure as I do live in Houston and as someone already mentioned not sure if the 13500 can take the kind of the heat and humidity that the Gulf Coast can kick out.

Which would limit my choices.

I appreciate everyones help.




Posted By: mumkin on 01/02/14 11:37am

suz155 wrote:

I should have mentioned , I am looking at the Sprinter based B's.

RV Air Conditioner: The handy guide for RV AC & Camper AC Units

They, for the most part, have the 13500.


I've visited the Roadtrek, Pleasureway, and LTV websites and none of them offer the 13500 on their Class B units.

They are all 10500-11000.

Are you sure that you are not looking at small Class C units - that some sellers insist on calling "B+"??

Best RV Air Conditioner? New Furrion 14.5K BTU Air Conditioner Review.

Pleasureway does have 13500 in the Pursuit, but that is a C. LTV offers it on the Serenity, Unity, and Libero... but they are also Class C.

It seems that the Era is the only one?


Posted By: Patty1819 on 01/02/14 01:16pm

The Airstream Interstate has a 13,500 BTU air conditioner.




Posted By: mlts22 on 01/02/14 01:45pm

mumkin wrote:

suz155 wrote:

I should have mentioned , I am looking at the Sprinter based B's.

They, for the most part, have the 13500.


I've visited the Roadtrek, Pleasureway, and LTV websites and none of them offer the 13500 on their Class B units. They are all 10500-11000.

Are you sure that you are not looking at small Class C units - that some sellers insist on calling "B+"??

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Pleasureway does have 13500 in the Pursuit, but that is a C. LTV offers it on the Serenity, Unity, and Libero... but they are also Class C.

It seems that the Era is the only one?



Sportsmobile sells 13.5k models, as well as a 12k Danhard A/C (for people who don't want the added height of a roof unit.




Posted By: My Roadtrek on 01/02/14 05:13pm

I believe the OP is looking for a small Class C, and is confused my manufactures that continue to call them B+'s


Posted By: mumkin on 01/02/14 06:03pm

mlts22 wrote:

Sportsmobile sells 13.5k models, as well as a 12k Danhard A/C (for people who don't want the added height of a roof unit.

Since Sportsmobile is a "design your own RV" company, you can get whatever you want.

I highly recommend them... and they are in Texas.

I've visited the factory in Austen and was impressed.

15000 ipo 13500 rv air conditioner

At the time they were building a small C, but they stopped before I made the move.


Posted By: suz155 on 01/03/14 06:12am

Morning. I do know what a B+ is, wouldn't work, as I like to stealth camp.

Was a typo on my part, I should have captioned 11000 vs 13500. From what I've read so far, doesn't look like B's are really ideal for the South. That might be why I see so few of them , on the roads down here.

Too bad the manufacturers don't come up with a solution on the insulation on the windows.


Posted By: My Roadtrek on 01/03/14 02:52pm

Your basically driving a tin can, it gets really hot driving on 100+ pavement!

and can take a day of parking for the chassis to cool. If parked in the shade, on grass/dirt it can be cooled enough to use in the summer.

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The heat here in AZ is the reason I went with a small (19'') well insulated, 13,5k A/C. TT.